There are few places more politically sensitive than the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ). The DMZ is what divides North Korea from South Korea, and it is one of the most well-guarded borders in the world. Instead of opting for a regular day tour out of Seoul, I decided that I would stay by the border in order to gain as much experience as possible in the DMZ area.
Going from Seoul to the border
My journey started from central Seoul, where I had to make my way to the northern edge of the city via the vast subway system of Seoul, which took me an hour to reach. The subway has several layers of stations, shopping complex, and various train lines.
After an hour’s ride, I arrived at a small town just close to the border, and everything felt very different from Seoul. The streets were quieter, there were fewer tourists, and military personnel could be seen walking around frequently.
My next challenge was to find a place to stay, in a town where very few hotels are available and some were very cheap ones. After some time, I found a fairly simple hotel for around $70 a night
Entry into the Demilitarized Zone
It is impossible for visitors to visit the DMZ on their own. After taking another train followed by a taxi ride, I arrived at the place that offers organized tours. I bought a ticket for a DMZ tour lasting three hours. The tour had a few stops inside the DMZ.
After passing through a few military checkpoints, we left for our DMZ tour. Passengers were required to provide identification information when purchasing a ticket, and the soldiers checked our names against passenger lists before allowing the buses to go through.
The peculiar atmosphere became stronger when we were traveling through the DMZ. Even though there was a military presence, we could see wide roads, farmland, and rice fields. It was strange to feel a lack of traffic during this time.
Looking into North Korea
One of the most impressive points of the tour was an observation point that overlooked North Korea. Seeing houses and fields on the other side of the border was possible with binoculars.
The experience was interesting but uncomfortable. Looking at people’s houses through a tourist observation point is uncomfortable.
Exploring the Third Tunnel
Our tour also included the Third Infiltration Tunnel, which was discovered in 1978. It is said that North Korea built the tunnel in its moves to secretly gain access to South Korea.
In order to reach the section of the tunnel open to the public, you have to crawl through a passage that is steep. If you are taller than average, the experience will be really tough for you because the ceiling is low throughout the whole tunnel.
The tunnel reminds us of the fact that military activities have always been a part of life in Korea and completed a certain period of time.
A Border that Became a Tourist Destination
The last stop was a shop with souvenirs, which were DMZ branded items. There were caps, umbrellas, war-related goods, honey, and rice.
The whole experience is really hard to describe emotions-wise. The DMZ is exciting and off-putting at the same time. The place has a unique combination of military architecture and touristic facilities.
Having come from Germany, which was once broken up into East and West during the Cold War, I thought the experience was more meaningful. Germany eventually reunited, but the Korean Peninsula is still separated.
As a result, a visit to the DMZ is more than just a tourist experience. It is a constant reminder of a conflict that has affected countless people, and an uncertain border.
